100% Massachusetts Grapes - A clarification

I’ve been writing this blog for almost two years.  I’ve laid it all out, asked for feedback, received valuable input, had great fun and actually met very interesting people through this form of communication.  As some of you may have experienced in your own life, sometimes written words be it via an email or a blog post can be taken the wrong way because, well, you are not face-to-face to explain what you mean in a way that’s clear as it can be.  Worst is that sometimes you don’t write exactly what you mean.  Regardless, I love blogging and it’s something that I will continue to do even if it occasionally gets me in trouble.  Which is exactly what happened with my post from June 5th, 2009 titled “100% Massachusetts Grapes”.  Several people are not happy with the following statement I made:

<<My personal opinion is that blending grapes from considerably different growing regions (like California with Mass., Finger Lakes with Mass., etc.) should be prohibited by law.  I've expressed my reasons here before so I will leave it at that.>>

I made the mistake of leaving out a key component of what I really feel.  What I believe in and should have written is the following:

My personal opinion is that blending grapes from considerably different growing regions (like California with Mass., Finger Lakes with Mass., etc.) should be prohibited by law when the consumer is not clearly informed of the source of the grapes that went into making such wine.

That’s not me back-tracking, just admitting that I made a mistake by omitting an important aspect which may alter the reader’s understanding quite significantly.  It was a mistake and I apologize for that.

With that said…

Yes, blending grapes from different regions does not excite me.  Discovering what can be done well here in our own state does. For me, wine is a regional product.  Others can think differently, that’s perfectly fine and I don’t think less of anyone who disagrees with me on this.  Blending grapes from different regions may actually produce what may be considered a technically better wine. That’s just not what interests me personally.

It has been pointed out to me via three emails which I received in the last few days that some winemakers in Massachusetts don’t just disagree with me, but believe that as a newcomer and someone who does not even own his own vineyard, I should “tone it down”.  Below is a response that I sent to one of winemakers who reached out to me directly.  This is my attempt to clarify my position on this topic.

Dear XXX (he asked to keep his identity private which is fine with me),

Thank you for your message.  You expressed your view on my blog post in a very kind way.  I truly appreciate your choice of words.

Just because I'm a newcomer it doesn't mean that I should not speak my mind when I see practices that in my opinion are a detriment to the development and sustainability of our local wine industry.

For the most part, the Massachusetts winemakers that I have met have been helpful and welcoming.  Likewise, I have never turned anyone down, be it for a wine making matter, be it for a business perspective.  I hope that it continues to be this way, despite the fact that we may disagree on this topic.

I agree that I'm not entitled to legislate on anything.  It is not right for me to suggest that the practice of blending local grapes with grapes from other states should be prohibited by law - as a blank statement.  I did not explain myself further because I've touched on this subject before on my blog, other people's blogs and personal conversations.  It's a reminder for me that when someone reads a post of mine for the first time, as a stand alone piece of writing, it does not mean that this person read my previous posts or has ever spoken to me in person. 

Let me get to what has really disturbed me over the few years that I've been paying attention to what is happening in our small/local wine industry.  You state <<If the grapes come from out-of-state, it should be on the label, simple as that.>>  Yes, I absolutely agree.  In fact I have a project in the works which is a non-Massachusetts wine and if it comes to fruition, be assured that I will label it accordingly.  Not just label it, but market it clearly as wine I made but with grapes which are not grown here. However, I have found several instances in which Massachusetts wines made with grapes from other states are "passed" (for lack of a better word) to the public as local wines.  Sure, the label states "American Table Wine" as required by law, but somehow the public who tastes and buys it, walks away thinking that these wines are made with grapes grown in Massachusetts.

Early this year I attended an event where a local winery was pouring their wines.  Someone I had just met tasted the wine and then came over and told me how amazed she was at this red wine.  She was skeptical that Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon could fully ripen here, but the wine was quite good with very ripe flavors.  Quote from her own words to me "I never tasted a Massachusetts red wine this good."  Now, I understand that some winemakers would have communicated the origin of the grapes to her in a very clear way, but this was not my observation this time.  Let's not dismiss it as an isolated situation because I can tell you of other similar experiences I've had myself.  So, I have to ask... is this what we want people to believe in?  How fair is it to those who have been for years now taking risks and investing into growing 100% Massachusetts grown wines?  I'm certainly not included in this group of risk takers since I don't yet own any vineyards (getting closer each day), but even so, I find this frustrating.

I know that we must not penalize those who are clear about the origin of their grapes, but my observation is that simply labeling "American Table Wine" is not enough.  That's my personal opinion, not saying that we should change the current labeling law (plenty of that already going on).  The reality is that existing practices lead the wine drinker to develop the wrong impression and incorrect expectation for what Massachusetts grown wine tastes like.  I find this damaging to the Massachusetts wine industry, not helpful.  So, despite the fact that using grapes from other states does not excite me, I honestly don’t have a problem with a Massachusetts winery who does so, or blends of local and non-local grapes.  I have a problem with the way that the wine is often presented to the consumer.

I understand that there are much bigger issues in the world to be worried about.  Ultimately, wine is simply supposed to be fun.  When you are passionate about something though, you can't help but to express your feelings.

All the best,
Marco

So, I hope this helps clarify the reason why I made the statement to begin with.  Now, while I’m at it, here some other random thoughts, i.e. let me dig a bigger hole for myself… :-)

-    There’s some locally grown wine that quite frankly is awful.  Wine that should have never made it to the shelf.  So I understand that local does not equal quality.  (I’ve also written about this on my blog in the past.)
-    There’s locally grown wine that has a low quality to price ratio.  In other words, there are some wines selling for $25+ just because they are locally grown.  It may work for a barrel or 2, but in the long run there’s no chance to compete in a larger scale, unless all you are doing is selling wine to tourists.
-    If it can’t be grown here, why make it here?… Personal opinion of course not telling anyone what to do.  What’s the issue with leaving Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel to be made in regions where it can actually be grown to maturity?  Experiment, take risks, try new growing techniques, etc.  But why not concentrate efforts in what we already know can be grown well and with consistency here?
-    There’s plenty of farm land out there waiting to be used… why not invest in it if it’s suitable for quality grape growing?

You read this far?  I really appreciate that.  As always, THANK YOU for reading my blog.  Please feel free to leave a comment with your thoughts, ideas, etc.

Comments

[Ben]

If being labeled "American Table Wine" is the only indication that grapes from the opposite coast are being used, then I’d say that’s definitely misleading. Frankly, I’m amazed to learn that MA wineries would even use California grapes. I think the average consumer would have a similar reaction.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m for total freedom in this area and I’m happy to drink all kinds of wine – but honest labeling is important.

[Marco Montez]

Hi Ben, thank you for your comment. Glad to see that you are still reading my blog.

Marco